It’s almost 4:30 here and I can’t sleep. I’m still on Brazil time. We just got here (Mumbai) yesterday. We’re staying a bit far from downtown, but it’s comfortable. Tonight, Ben, Akona and I went to a place called Voodoo, which is the only gayish bar in Mumbai right now, and the first in all of India. So anyway, the gay scene is underground and very word of mouth (with the exception of this place - which is only officially gay on a Saturday).
So far India is cool. The drive into the city was a good opportunity to see the real city. Taxi drivers often drive you around and around to make the fare higher so you always get to see more than you’ve bargained for.
Going to see PVD at a place called Poison! I’ve been told it’s the place to be, especially when it comes to Bollywood star watching. Can’t wait! This city dances like no other.
Saturday 10 May 2008
Tuesday 26 February 2008
Morrow de Sao Paulo
A tropical island paradise for the Smirnoff Ten to have some down time and catch up on work. It came just in time. We got two films finished, which felt good. I ate some great sea food, which was good. I spent a lot of time staring at the ocean. An entire day once. Some sort of vigil for urban living.
Ten days on an island got to be a bit much. I really like cities and the options that they present. The island started to feel limiting, but before I got too bored I got really sick for three days. It was a great activity to pass the time and I felt skinny when it was all over.
I saw crabs in the sand this one time when we were sitting on patio! And they were all walking sideways like crabs! So I ran after them, but they were fast. Some of them made pinchy gestures.
Later on the Patio, our waiter brought a live crab to our table and let us touch it. Then he demonstrated the incredible power of crab claws making them pinch through a piece of local fruit. The crab was released in front of the restaurant and it currently lives in the ocean.
Ten days on an island got to be a bit much. I really like cities and the options that they present. The island started to feel limiting, but before I got too bored I got really sick for three days. It was a great activity to pass the time and I felt skinny when it was all over.
I saw crabs in the sand this one time when we were sitting on patio! And they were all walking sideways like crabs! So I ran after them, but they were fast. Some of them made pinchy gestures.
Later on the Patio, our waiter brought a live crab to our table and let us touch it. Then he demonstrated the incredible power of crab claws making them pinch through a piece of local fruit. The crab was released in front of the restaurant and it currently lives in the ocean.
Salvador, Carnival
Wow. This is probably the closest to SPRING BREAK I'll ever get. It's insane and widespread. Millions of people for five days are in the streets, parading, dancing, kissing...
I found it difficult to engage with Carnival. It didn't click for me, but that doesn't mean I was bored. There was so much to look at. And by much I mean people.
We walked in a Trio Electrico one day. It's a transport truck with a stage and lights, etc built onto it and people, within a roped off area, walk in front, beside and behind it. Managing to keep paying people inside the rope and street people out is done using hundreds of security people that create a wall along the rope they carry. Security also makes sure that no one rolls under the truck. They really thought of everything.
The parade was intense. Packed, moving, , jumping. It was hours of walking forward, falling back, getting shoved, pressed, pulled. I'm glad I did it. Now I can say that I have. But I really can't describe it as anything other than intense.
The Camarotes were cool. They're like nightclub spaces that people pay to go to. They have a special t-shirt that grants access. Everyone wears them. We were told that if we went unguarded into the street that they would be ripped off of us because they were worth so much.
The 2222 Camarote was apparently the VIP celebrity place to be. There were Brazilian celebrities all over the place, but I didn't know any of them. I only knew they were famous when the photographers and TV people went nuts.
The 2222 had some great food as well as drinks. Free ice cream, sushi. Meat.
We also went to a Camarote (nanna banana) that had a beach behind it. It was great to sit with a capiroska in the sand and take a break for the constant stream of Brazilian hits that seemed to be looped all over the city.
Carnival was an unforgettable experience. Maybe not my thing, but a really interesting five days. I can't say that I've ever seen a crowd like that. I can't say that I've ever seen a population unified by music. Carnival lived up to its reputation as something beyond description. It's truly an experience.
I found it difficult to engage with Carnival. It didn't click for me, but that doesn't mean I was bored. There was so much to look at. And by much I mean people.
We walked in a Trio Electrico one day. It's a transport truck with a stage and lights, etc built onto it and people, within a roped off area, walk in front, beside and behind it. Managing to keep paying people inside the rope and street people out is done using hundreds of security people that create a wall along the rope they carry. Security also makes sure that no one rolls under the truck. They really thought of everything.
The parade was intense. Packed, moving, , jumping. It was hours of walking forward, falling back, getting shoved, pressed, pulled. I'm glad I did it. Now I can say that I have. But I really can't describe it as anything other than intense.
The Camarotes were cool. They're like nightclub spaces that people pay to go to. They have a special t-shirt that grants access. Everyone wears them. We were told that if we went unguarded into the street that they would be ripped off of us because they were worth so much.
The 2222 Camarote was apparently the VIP celebrity place to be. There were Brazilian celebrities all over the place, but I didn't know any of them. I only knew they were famous when the photographers and TV people went nuts.
The 2222 had some great food as well as drinks. Free ice cream, sushi. Meat.
We also went to a Camarote (nanna banana) that had a beach behind it. It was great to sit with a capiroska in the sand and take a break for the constant stream of Brazilian hits that seemed to be looped all over the city.
Carnival was an unforgettable experience. Maybe not my thing, but a really interesting five days. I can't say that I've ever seen a crowd like that. I can't say that I've ever seen a population unified by music. Carnival lived up to its reputation as something beyond description. It's truly an experience.
Chengdu
Somewhere in the middle of our stay in Shanghai, we headed for Chengdu. It's near the Tibetan boarder and there was a big Smirnoff event planned. It's a big city, it's in China. I can't really compare it to Shanghai. They're both big and in China.
Chengdu is the home of Kung-Pow chicken. It's better here than in any North American mall food court. It's very hot and layered. A lot happening. Loved it.
The event was pretty spectacular. There were lots of dancers in white fur coats, a man on stilts who later morphed into a giant robot, etc. The space was quite large and open. It could have been a bit fuller (or smaller), but it was still a great party.
There was a lot of media there. They formed a photo taking circle around the Smirnoff Ten. It was interesting to be a part of the spectacle.
We were also told that there was a silver and white dress code.
I borrowed a fire mask from the closet in my hotel and altered it so that it was easier to breathe. Then coated my shoes and legs in tin foil. After I dressed I went to knock on Ben's door to see if he was ready but it was the wrong door and I scared a businessman. Fun. Really fun.
Anyway, the event was a great time. Wearing a mask in public is liberating. I should do it more.
Chengdu is the home of Kung-Pow chicken. It's better here than in any North American mall food court. It's very hot and layered. A lot happening. Loved it.
The event was pretty spectacular. There were lots of dancers in white fur coats, a man on stilts who later morphed into a giant robot, etc. The space was quite large and open. It could have been a bit fuller (or smaller), but it was still a great party.
There was a lot of media there. They formed a photo taking circle around the Smirnoff Ten. It was interesting to be a part of the spectacle.
We were also told that there was a silver and white dress code.
I borrowed a fire mask from the closet in my hotel and altered it so that it was easier to breathe. Then coated my shoes and legs in tin foil. After I dressed I went to knock on Ben's door to see if he was ready but it was the wrong door and I scared a businessman. Fun. Really fun.
Anyway, the event was a great time. Wearing a mask in public is liberating. I should do it more.
Shanghai
It was nice to step out of the airport and be cold. It is after all, winter.
Shanghai shaped up to be one of the biggest surprises of the trip. Prior to arriving I didn't know what to expect, beyond the skyline.
The key to the city turned out to be a guy named Coco. He's a great jazz vocalist/composer who embodies everything cool about Shanghai. He introduced us to places like Logo, a place that those in the know, know. No line ups here. A laid back anything goes sort of place with live music almost every night of the week. Coco also introduced us to late night restaurants full of club people.
In Toronto, Chinatown is home to some of the best all night restaurants in the city. Over the years, many post disco memories happened in Chinese restaurants. Now I'm in China doing the same thing. This year away in many ways seems to link a back to life before, completing full circles. Every time I get this feeling I relax a little, like I know that I'm on the right track.
But I digress.
Shanghai shaped up to be one of the biggest surprises of the trip. Prior to arriving I didn't know what to expect, beyond the skyline.
The key to the city turned out to be a guy named Coco. He's a great jazz vocalist/composer who embodies everything cool about Shanghai. He introduced us to places like Logo, a place that those in the know, know. No line ups here. A laid back anything goes sort of place with live music almost every night of the week. Coco also introduced us to late night restaurants full of club people.
In Toronto, Chinatown is home to some of the best all night restaurants in the city. Over the years, many post disco memories happened in Chinese restaurants. Now I'm in China doing the same thing. This year away in many ways seems to link a back to life before, completing full circles. Every time I get this feeling I relax a little, like I know that I'm on the right track.
But I digress.
Melbourne
Melbourne was one of the shortest stays we've had on this trip. It started off with a bang. Actually no, it started off with a nap. Once we got to our hotel we needed an hour to feel alive again.
Then it was off to the Summa Dayze festival. Wow. That was fun. Smirnoff had a private Area 21 igloo that protected us from the sun and was kept cooler. I met guys that were friendly, until they asked if I was gay. Then responses varied from politely walking away to being really horrible. And these were guys that were coming up to me- after the first time this happened I sure as hell wasn't going to approach anyone. That was the downside to the festival- Australia in general, actually. I haven't heard the word faggot that much since the 80's. Guess it's not just neon that's back. Maybe it never left...
Anyway, alienated or not, I was there to dance, do interviews, etc. And that's what I did. There were thousands of people, dozens of DJs, lots to do, see. And a great summer day (but New Years day, which was surreal)
Balancing drinks with water was important to avoid getting dehydrated. I always get headaches if I'm dehydrated, and this wasn't the day for that to happen. I was there for the long haul. Well, I left after six or seven hours. Too much of a good thing makes my heart burst.
I walked home. No address, no map, no concept of the city, but it felt like a great night for walking. It added an hour extra to the walk time, but it was a great way to see some of this city that would soon be a memory.
Melbourne was one of the shortest stays we've had on this trip. It started off with a bang. Actually no, it started off with a nap. Once we got to our hotel we needed an hour to feel alive again.
Then it was off to the Summa Dayze festival. Wow. That was fun. Smirnoff had a private Area 21 igloo that protected us from the sun and was kept cooler. I met guys that were friendly, until they asked if I was gay. Then responses varied from politely walking away to being really horrible. And these were guys that were coming up to me- after the first time this happened I sure as hell wasn't going to approach anyone. That was the downside to the festival- Australia in general, actually. I haven't heard the word faggot that much since the 80's. Guess it's not just neon that's back. Maybe it never left...
Anyway, alienated or not, I was there to dance, do interviews, etc. And that's what I did. There were thousands of people, dozens of DJs, lots to do, see. And a great summer day (but New Years day, which was surreal)
Balancing drinks with water was important to avoid getting dehydrated. I always get headaches if I'm dehydrated, and this wasn't the day for that to happen. I was there for the long haul. Well, I left after six or seven hours. Too much of a good thing makes my heart burst.
I walked home. No address, no map, no concept of the city, but it felt like a great night for walking. It added an hour extra to the walk time, but it was a great way to see some of this city that would soon be a memory.
NYE
For New Years, the Smirnoff Ten got divided into two teams. I was part of team Sydney and we were heading for Bondi beach, where we'd see Groove Armada. There was a huge crowd at the gates. But it moved quickly and soon we were inside the beach party of the year.
We managed to get into a VIP building that had real live indoor washrooms without lines. The trick that helped us get in was to unintentionally wear our passes to the event in Melbourne the next day. No one knew what they were, but it managed to do everything but get free drinks. We tried. All five of us. Separately.
As the clock ticked on, we decided to get on the beach and get as close to the stage as we could. We got very close. There was a little narrow pen right in front of the stage and for some reason it wasn't crowded like the main area. I didn't notice security at the entrance, but maybe there was and we dazzled him with our magic passes from the future.
Groove Armanda live was a great experience. They pumped out the anthems, yes, but the live vocals were what I really responded to. And being close enough to see how connected to her performance she was brought me into it as well.
But New Years Eve would turn out to be a somewhat early night for us. We had a flight to Melbourne in the morning.
We managed to get into a VIP building that had real live indoor washrooms without lines. The trick that helped us get in was to unintentionally wear our passes to the event in Melbourne the next day. No one knew what they were, but it managed to do everything but get free drinks. We tried. All five of us. Separately.
As the clock ticked on, we decided to get on the beach and get as close to the stage as we could. We got very close. There was a little narrow pen right in front of the stage and for some reason it wasn't crowded like the main area. I didn't notice security at the entrance, but maybe there was and we dazzled him with our magic passes from the future.
Groove Armanda live was a great experience. They pumped out the anthems, yes, but the live vocals were what I really responded to. And being close enough to see how connected to her performance she was brought me into it as well.
But New Years Eve would turn out to be a somewhat early night for us. We had a flight to Melbourne in the morning.
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