A tropical island paradise for the Smirnoff Ten to have some down time and catch up on work. It came just in time. We got two films finished, which felt good. I ate some great sea food, which was good. I spent a lot of time staring at the ocean. An entire day once. Some sort of vigil for urban living.
Ten days on an island got to be a bit much. I really like cities and the options that they present. The island started to feel limiting, but before I got too bored I got really sick for three days. It was a great activity to pass the time and I felt skinny when it was all over.
I saw crabs in the sand this one time when we were sitting on patio! And they were all walking sideways like crabs! So I ran after them, but they were fast. Some of them made pinchy gestures.
Later on the Patio, our waiter brought a live crab to our table and let us touch it. Then he demonstrated the incredible power of crab claws making them pinch through a piece of local fruit. The crab was released in front of the restaurant and it currently lives in the ocean.
Tuesday 26 February 2008
Salvador, Carnival
Wow. This is probably the closest to SPRING BREAK I'll ever get. It's insane and widespread. Millions of people for five days are in the streets, parading, dancing, kissing...
I found it difficult to engage with Carnival. It didn't click for me, but that doesn't mean I was bored. There was so much to look at. And by much I mean people.
We walked in a Trio Electrico one day. It's a transport truck with a stage and lights, etc built onto it and people, within a roped off area, walk in front, beside and behind it. Managing to keep paying people inside the rope and street people out is done using hundreds of security people that create a wall along the rope they carry. Security also makes sure that no one rolls under the truck. They really thought of everything.
The parade was intense. Packed, moving, , jumping. It was hours of walking forward, falling back, getting shoved, pressed, pulled. I'm glad I did it. Now I can say that I have. But I really can't describe it as anything other than intense.
The Camarotes were cool. They're like nightclub spaces that people pay to go to. They have a special t-shirt that grants access. Everyone wears them. We were told that if we went unguarded into the street that they would be ripped off of us because they were worth so much.
The 2222 Camarote was apparently the VIP celebrity place to be. There were Brazilian celebrities all over the place, but I didn't know any of them. I only knew they were famous when the photographers and TV people went nuts.
The 2222 had some great food as well as drinks. Free ice cream, sushi. Meat.
We also went to a Camarote (nanna banana) that had a beach behind it. It was great to sit with a capiroska in the sand and take a break for the constant stream of Brazilian hits that seemed to be looped all over the city.
Carnival was an unforgettable experience. Maybe not my thing, but a really interesting five days. I can't say that I've ever seen a crowd like that. I can't say that I've ever seen a population unified by music. Carnival lived up to its reputation as something beyond description. It's truly an experience.
I found it difficult to engage with Carnival. It didn't click for me, but that doesn't mean I was bored. There was so much to look at. And by much I mean people.
We walked in a Trio Electrico one day. It's a transport truck with a stage and lights, etc built onto it and people, within a roped off area, walk in front, beside and behind it. Managing to keep paying people inside the rope and street people out is done using hundreds of security people that create a wall along the rope they carry. Security also makes sure that no one rolls under the truck. They really thought of everything.
The parade was intense. Packed, moving, , jumping. It was hours of walking forward, falling back, getting shoved, pressed, pulled. I'm glad I did it. Now I can say that I have. But I really can't describe it as anything other than intense.
The Camarotes were cool. They're like nightclub spaces that people pay to go to. They have a special t-shirt that grants access. Everyone wears them. We were told that if we went unguarded into the street that they would be ripped off of us because they were worth so much.
The 2222 Camarote was apparently the VIP celebrity place to be. There were Brazilian celebrities all over the place, but I didn't know any of them. I only knew they were famous when the photographers and TV people went nuts.
The 2222 had some great food as well as drinks. Free ice cream, sushi. Meat.
We also went to a Camarote (nanna banana) that had a beach behind it. It was great to sit with a capiroska in the sand and take a break for the constant stream of Brazilian hits that seemed to be looped all over the city.
Carnival was an unforgettable experience. Maybe not my thing, but a really interesting five days. I can't say that I've ever seen a crowd like that. I can't say that I've ever seen a population unified by music. Carnival lived up to its reputation as something beyond description. It's truly an experience.
Chengdu
Somewhere in the middle of our stay in Shanghai, we headed for Chengdu. It's near the Tibetan boarder and there was a big Smirnoff event planned. It's a big city, it's in China. I can't really compare it to Shanghai. They're both big and in China.
Chengdu is the home of Kung-Pow chicken. It's better here than in any North American mall food court. It's very hot and layered. A lot happening. Loved it.
The event was pretty spectacular. There were lots of dancers in white fur coats, a man on stilts who later morphed into a giant robot, etc. The space was quite large and open. It could have been a bit fuller (or smaller), but it was still a great party.
There was a lot of media there. They formed a photo taking circle around the Smirnoff Ten. It was interesting to be a part of the spectacle.
We were also told that there was a silver and white dress code.
I borrowed a fire mask from the closet in my hotel and altered it so that it was easier to breathe. Then coated my shoes and legs in tin foil. After I dressed I went to knock on Ben's door to see if he was ready but it was the wrong door and I scared a businessman. Fun. Really fun.
Anyway, the event was a great time. Wearing a mask in public is liberating. I should do it more.
Chengdu is the home of Kung-Pow chicken. It's better here than in any North American mall food court. It's very hot and layered. A lot happening. Loved it.
The event was pretty spectacular. There were lots of dancers in white fur coats, a man on stilts who later morphed into a giant robot, etc. The space was quite large and open. It could have been a bit fuller (or smaller), but it was still a great party.
There was a lot of media there. They formed a photo taking circle around the Smirnoff Ten. It was interesting to be a part of the spectacle.
We were also told that there was a silver and white dress code.
I borrowed a fire mask from the closet in my hotel and altered it so that it was easier to breathe. Then coated my shoes and legs in tin foil. After I dressed I went to knock on Ben's door to see if he was ready but it was the wrong door and I scared a businessman. Fun. Really fun.
Anyway, the event was a great time. Wearing a mask in public is liberating. I should do it more.
Shanghai
It was nice to step out of the airport and be cold. It is after all, winter.
Shanghai shaped up to be one of the biggest surprises of the trip. Prior to arriving I didn't know what to expect, beyond the skyline.
The key to the city turned out to be a guy named Coco. He's a great jazz vocalist/composer who embodies everything cool about Shanghai. He introduced us to places like Logo, a place that those in the know, know. No line ups here. A laid back anything goes sort of place with live music almost every night of the week. Coco also introduced us to late night restaurants full of club people.
In Toronto, Chinatown is home to some of the best all night restaurants in the city. Over the years, many post disco memories happened in Chinese restaurants. Now I'm in China doing the same thing. This year away in many ways seems to link a back to life before, completing full circles. Every time I get this feeling I relax a little, like I know that I'm on the right track.
But I digress.
Shanghai shaped up to be one of the biggest surprises of the trip. Prior to arriving I didn't know what to expect, beyond the skyline.
The key to the city turned out to be a guy named Coco. He's a great jazz vocalist/composer who embodies everything cool about Shanghai. He introduced us to places like Logo, a place that those in the know, know. No line ups here. A laid back anything goes sort of place with live music almost every night of the week. Coco also introduced us to late night restaurants full of club people.
In Toronto, Chinatown is home to some of the best all night restaurants in the city. Over the years, many post disco memories happened in Chinese restaurants. Now I'm in China doing the same thing. This year away in many ways seems to link a back to life before, completing full circles. Every time I get this feeling I relax a little, like I know that I'm on the right track.
But I digress.
Melbourne
Melbourne was one of the shortest stays we've had on this trip. It started off with a bang. Actually no, it started off with a nap. Once we got to our hotel we needed an hour to feel alive again.
Then it was off to the Summa Dayze festival. Wow. That was fun. Smirnoff had a private Area 21 igloo that protected us from the sun and was kept cooler. I met guys that were friendly, until they asked if I was gay. Then responses varied from politely walking away to being really horrible. And these were guys that were coming up to me- after the first time this happened I sure as hell wasn't going to approach anyone. That was the downside to the festival- Australia in general, actually. I haven't heard the word faggot that much since the 80's. Guess it's not just neon that's back. Maybe it never left...
Anyway, alienated or not, I was there to dance, do interviews, etc. And that's what I did. There were thousands of people, dozens of DJs, lots to do, see. And a great summer day (but New Years day, which was surreal)
Balancing drinks with water was important to avoid getting dehydrated. I always get headaches if I'm dehydrated, and this wasn't the day for that to happen. I was there for the long haul. Well, I left after six or seven hours. Too much of a good thing makes my heart burst.
I walked home. No address, no map, no concept of the city, but it felt like a great night for walking. It added an hour extra to the walk time, but it was a great way to see some of this city that would soon be a memory.
Melbourne was one of the shortest stays we've had on this trip. It started off with a bang. Actually no, it started off with a nap. Once we got to our hotel we needed an hour to feel alive again.
Then it was off to the Summa Dayze festival. Wow. That was fun. Smirnoff had a private Area 21 igloo that protected us from the sun and was kept cooler. I met guys that were friendly, until they asked if I was gay. Then responses varied from politely walking away to being really horrible. And these were guys that were coming up to me- after the first time this happened I sure as hell wasn't going to approach anyone. That was the downside to the festival- Australia in general, actually. I haven't heard the word faggot that much since the 80's. Guess it's not just neon that's back. Maybe it never left...
Anyway, alienated or not, I was there to dance, do interviews, etc. And that's what I did. There were thousands of people, dozens of DJs, lots to do, see. And a great summer day (but New Years day, which was surreal)
Balancing drinks with water was important to avoid getting dehydrated. I always get headaches if I'm dehydrated, and this wasn't the day for that to happen. I was there for the long haul. Well, I left after six or seven hours. Too much of a good thing makes my heart burst.
I walked home. No address, no map, no concept of the city, but it felt like a great night for walking. It added an hour extra to the walk time, but it was a great way to see some of this city that would soon be a memory.
NYE
For New Years, the Smirnoff Ten got divided into two teams. I was part of team Sydney and we were heading for Bondi beach, where we'd see Groove Armada. There was a huge crowd at the gates. But it moved quickly and soon we were inside the beach party of the year.
We managed to get into a VIP building that had real live indoor washrooms without lines. The trick that helped us get in was to unintentionally wear our passes to the event in Melbourne the next day. No one knew what they were, but it managed to do everything but get free drinks. We tried. All five of us. Separately.
As the clock ticked on, we decided to get on the beach and get as close to the stage as we could. We got very close. There was a little narrow pen right in front of the stage and for some reason it wasn't crowded like the main area. I didn't notice security at the entrance, but maybe there was and we dazzled him with our magic passes from the future.
Groove Armanda live was a great experience. They pumped out the anthems, yes, but the live vocals were what I really responded to. And being close enough to see how connected to her performance she was brought me into it as well.
But New Years Eve would turn out to be a somewhat early night for us. We had a flight to Melbourne in the morning.
We managed to get into a VIP building that had real live indoor washrooms without lines. The trick that helped us get in was to unintentionally wear our passes to the event in Melbourne the next day. No one knew what they were, but it managed to do everything but get free drinks. We tried. All five of us. Separately.
As the clock ticked on, we decided to get on the beach and get as close to the stage as we could. We got very close. There was a little narrow pen right in front of the stage and for some reason it wasn't crowded like the main area. I didn't notice security at the entrance, but maybe there was and we dazzled him with our magic passes from the future.
Groove Armanda live was a great experience. They pumped out the anthems, yes, but the live vocals were what I really responded to. And being close enough to see how connected to her performance she was brought me into it as well.
But New Years Eve would turn out to be a somewhat early night for us. We had a flight to Melbourne in the morning.
Sydney
Another new continent for me. Australia is a place I hadn't ever imagined going to. From Canada, flights to Australia are probably the most expensive. But there I was. Sydney. It's hard to wrap my head around sometimes.
Sydney is a neon city. Not like Vegas or Tokyo. Almost every person under 30 that you pass on the street is wearing neon. And hot. Hot and neon.
One of the most original nights out went down at the Holy Rave. Kung and I ventured down to club 77 for the occasion. And what an occasion. There was a perpetual line up all night- add that to the loitering smokers and fresh air seekers and you've got quite a buzz going. The buzz continued as we headed down to the dark, low, hot and wet basement space.
The music was insane. Take any set of opposing adjectives you'd like: hard, soft, organic, mechanical, systematic, chaotic- that was the sound for the night. And people really threw themselves into it, completely letting go under a canopy of paper crosses.
Sydney was also the first time I got to see anyone from back home. A friend of mine who has family in Australia just happened to be there (well, Brisbane) so she flew to Sydney and we got to spend a few days together. Checking back in with my old life was nice. Some things have changed, most things haven't. She didn't think I've changed much, aside from being happier. That's a pretty big aside.
Sydney is a neon city. Not like Vegas or Tokyo. Almost every person under 30 that you pass on the street is wearing neon. And hot. Hot and neon.
One of the most original nights out went down at the Holy Rave. Kung and I ventured down to club 77 for the occasion. And what an occasion. There was a perpetual line up all night- add that to the loitering smokers and fresh air seekers and you've got quite a buzz going. The buzz continued as we headed down to the dark, low, hot and wet basement space.
The music was insane. Take any set of opposing adjectives you'd like: hard, soft, organic, mechanical, systematic, chaotic- that was the sound for the night. And people really threw themselves into it, completely letting go under a canopy of paper crosses.
Sydney was also the first time I got to see anyone from back home. A friend of mine who has family in Australia just happened to be there (well, Brisbane) so she flew to Sydney and we got to spend a few days together. Checking back in with my old life was nice. Some things have changed, most things haven't. She didn't think I've changed much, aside from being happier. That's a pretty big aside.
South Africa
Landing in Africa was a remarkable feeling. Stepping onto a new continent always is. While driving to our house, mountain ranges stretched as far as I could see. The landscape, from the highway, was truly majestic. Cape Town is a beautiful place.
So was our house. It was in a part of Cape Town called Camps Bay. Camps Bay is a beachfront 90210 type place and everyone you pass looks like an extra from a movie about Spring Break.
I spent a lot of time looking at the ocean. It was hard not to. It was just... there. Outside the window, in the backyard. I'm scared of the ocean. It's like an endless void that could just swallow me, reduce me to nothing. Like I never happened.
The beach house was an opportunity to catch up on work that had piled up. Having a communal space to live in made it much easier to communicate and work within the group. It was a productive time, sort of.
The best party in Cape Town was the MTV Smirnoff Division 7 party. Primarily this was because of the military theme. The venue, from the outside, looked like a base - but I think it was actually an old cracker factory or something. Inside, there were army crates and coolers used for seating, camo netting, security in uniform. Visually, this was a tight party, and audibly it was good too. The DJ was spinning a combo platter of old school, top 40, some mashups, etc. More than dancing, I had fun watching other people dance. Some fine, fine moves.
Johannesburg was a blur. We didn't have as much time as we did in Cape Town, but we made good use of the time we did have. We went to a Braai. It was delicious. Akona's father and sister both came. It was so cool to meet them. Akona's talked about her family quite a bit on the trip, so to finally put a face to them was a relief to my ever speculating brain.
Another great part the city was Soweto. It's where Nelson Mandela is from. We actually drove by his old house on a historical tour. People took photos, Kareem made a KareemTV video, but I was accidentally in the background and he got all angry. I don't know if I'll ever be able to forgive myself. I'm still working through it.
Soweto was also the site of the Smirnoff Ten welcome party. It was in a really minimal, vast space with three levels. Great furniture and lighting. I met some great people, had some great cocktails, and just had a great time. And when it was time to go, we just had to walk across the courtyard to our hotel.
Like any other destination this year, our departure date rolled around and it was back to the airport for us.
So was our house. It was in a part of Cape Town called Camps Bay. Camps Bay is a beachfront 90210 type place and everyone you pass looks like an extra from a movie about Spring Break.
I spent a lot of time looking at the ocean. It was hard not to. It was just... there. Outside the window, in the backyard. I'm scared of the ocean. It's like an endless void that could just swallow me, reduce me to nothing. Like I never happened.
The beach house was an opportunity to catch up on work that had piled up. Having a communal space to live in made it much easier to communicate and work within the group. It was a productive time, sort of.
The best party in Cape Town was the MTV Smirnoff Division 7 party. Primarily this was because of the military theme. The venue, from the outside, looked like a base - but I think it was actually an old cracker factory or something. Inside, there were army crates and coolers used for seating, camo netting, security in uniform. Visually, this was a tight party, and audibly it was good too. The DJ was spinning a combo platter of old school, top 40, some mashups, etc. More than dancing, I had fun watching other people dance. Some fine, fine moves.
Johannesburg was a blur. We didn't have as much time as we did in Cape Town, but we made good use of the time we did have. We went to a Braai. It was delicious. Akona's father and sister both came. It was so cool to meet them. Akona's talked about her family quite a bit on the trip, so to finally put a face to them was a relief to my ever speculating brain.
Another great part the city was Soweto. It's where Nelson Mandela is from. We actually drove by his old house on a historical tour. People took photos, Kareem made a KareemTV video, but I was accidentally in the background and he got all angry. I don't know if I'll ever be able to forgive myself. I'm still working through it.
Soweto was also the site of the Smirnoff Ten welcome party. It was in a really minimal, vast space with three levels. Great furniture and lighting. I met some great people, had some great cocktails, and just had a great time. And when it was time to go, we just had to walk across the courtyard to our hotel.
Like any other destination this year, our departure date rolled around and it was back to the airport for us.
Monday 18 February 2008
Smirnoff Experience Global Event, Shanghai
Shanghai climaxed in the Shanghai Sculpture center, where the second of four global Smirnoff Experience events took place. Before entering the party of last Chinese year, Steph and I spent some time sculpting introduction shots for the event video. We did one in front of a traditional looking, bronze, maybe, show pony. Another shot was done in front of a twisted, white, rectangular tube. It was really cold and snowing, so we ran inside. On the way we passed a bull with technological laser jet implants that help it fly better, a transformer (but not officially), you gotta fast car that's made of wood, abstract forms...
Once inside we were greeting by a record breaking self-fulfilling cocktail menu. Screens calculated and displayed over 1300 cocktails based on combinations of ingredients. Akona went through the process on camera and got a glass with ice and Smirnoff Black, herbal tea, vanilla syrup, and a strawberry'. She calls it the "Akona", but I call prefer to call it #1352. Imagine #1253.
And then it happened. A silver birch tree forest. Snow flakes in the air. An opportunity to take some time for yourself, slip on a pair of the headphones that grow out of a tree, and listen to the noises of birds in the summer. On each tree, a paper scroll which tells us the Smirnoff filtration process.
Stepping out from the forest, a wall of giant pearls reflect cold moving water. Stepping closer causes a Chinese model to pop out from between strands to hand us frosty water bottles. Since I was having an alcohol free night, I got to know the water model quite well. She even let me go behind the pearl curtain. VIP all the way.
I watched Thai Ben play with Tangrams. In our video he explains a famous legend about the origins of Tangrams and the idea that many different pieces make many different possibilities, combinations.
Another combination breakthrough moment happened while watching Hard-Fi collaborate with Chinese drummers. It was perfect. This once in a lifetime combination can be seen in a separate video about the music at this event. Hard-Fi, Tom Middleton, Sasha...
After a great night of music, I headed to the street, bought a hot can of milk tea and got in a cab (which is something I'd include in a pillow book, were I writing one). Shanghai would soon be another departure, bringing us to Salvador, Brazil.
Once inside we were greeting by a record breaking self-fulfilling cocktail menu. Screens calculated and displayed over 1300 cocktails based on combinations of ingredients. Akona went through the process on camera and got a glass with ice and Smirnoff Black, herbal tea, vanilla syrup, and a strawberry'. She calls it the "Akona", but I call prefer to call it #1352. Imagine #1253.
And then it happened. A silver birch tree forest. Snow flakes in the air. An opportunity to take some time for yourself, slip on a pair of the headphones that grow out of a tree, and listen to the noises of birds in the summer. On each tree, a paper scroll which tells us the Smirnoff filtration process.
Stepping out from the forest, a wall of giant pearls reflect cold moving water. Stepping closer causes a Chinese model to pop out from between strands to hand us frosty water bottles. Since I was having an alcohol free night, I got to know the water model quite well. She even let me go behind the pearl curtain. VIP all the way.
I watched Thai Ben play with Tangrams. In our video he explains a famous legend about the origins of Tangrams and the idea that many different pieces make many different possibilities, combinations.
Another combination breakthrough moment happened while watching Hard-Fi collaborate with Chinese drummers. It was perfect. This once in a lifetime combination can be seen in a separate video about the music at this event. Hard-Fi, Tom Middleton, Sasha...
After a great night of music, I headed to the street, bought a hot can of milk tea and got in a cab (which is something I'd include in a pillow book, were I writing one). Shanghai would soon be another departure, bringing us to Salvador, Brazil.
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